Internet censorship plan gets the green light
ASHER MOSES
December 15, 2009 - 5:52PM

Comments 90

The Federal Government has announced it will proceed with controversial plans to censor the internet after Government-commissioned trials found filtering a blacklist of banned sites was accurate and would not slow down the internet.

But critics, including the online users' lobby group Electronic Frontiers Australia and the Greens communications spokesman Scott Ludlam, said the trial results were not surprising and the policy was still fundamentally flawed.

The Communications Minister, Stephen Conroy, said today he would introduce legislation just before next year's elections to force ISPs to block a blacklist of "refused classification" (RC) websites for all Australian internet users.

The blacklist, featuring material such as child sex abuse, sexual violence and instructions on crime, would be compiled using a public complaints mechanism, Government censors and URLs provided by international agencies.

Senator Conroy also released results from a pilot trial of ISP-level internet filters, conducted by Enex Testlab, which he said found that blocking banned material "can be done with 100 per cent accuracy and negligible impact on internet speed".

"Most Australians acknowledge that there is some internet material which is not acceptable in any civilised society," he said.

"It is important that all Australians, particularly young children, are protected from this material."

He said about 15 western countries had encouraged or enforced internet filtering, and there was no reason why Australians should not have similar protection.

It is not clear how - or if - the filters will distinguish between illegal RC material and that which is perfectly legal to view.

An earlier version of the Government's top-secret list of banned sites was leaked on to the web in March, revealing the scope of the filtering could extend significantly beyond child porn.

About half of the sites on the list were not related to child porn and included a slew of online poker sites, YouTube links, regular gay and straight porn sites, Wikipedia entries, euthanasia sites, websites of fringe religions such as satanic sites, fetish sites, Christian sites, the website of a tour operator and even a Queensland dentist.

"Given the pilot's modest goals, it was designed from the beginning to pass," said EFA spokesman Colin Jacobs.

"Although it may address some technical issues, what it leaves out is far more important - exactly what will be blocked, who will decide, and why is it being attempted in the first place?"

Similarly, Senator Ludlam said: "Nobody said that filtering from a static list of URLs was going to slow things down too much unless the list gets huge, so I don't think they've already proven anything that we don't already know."

The pilot trial report also noted that motivated people could circumvent any internet filters with ease, which Senator Ludlam and Jacobs said called the effectiveness of the proposal into question.

Ludlam said proving a technical case was not the same as proving the wisdom of going down the internet censorship track in the first place, which he said had always been two separate discussions.

"While the Government says that they will be relying on an evidence-based policy, we still haven't seen evidence that this is going to play any meaningful role in preventing children from accessing harmful material online," Senator Ludlam said.

Jacobs said: "Successful technology isn't necessarily successful policy. We're still yet to hear a sensible explanation of what this policy is for, who it will help and why it is worth spending so much taxpayer money on."

Peter Coroneos, chief executive of the Internet Industry Association, said he would be meeting with his members tonight to discuss the report before formulating a response.

Senator Conroy said the Government would immediately undertake public consultations, starting today with the release of a discussion paper on additional measures to improve the accountability and transparency of processes that lead to sites being placed on the blacklist.

Some of the options raised include appeal mechanisms, notification to website owners of RC content and the review by an independent expert.

'Karsten
Nohl, chief research scientist with H4RDW4RE, a Sunnyvale, Calif.-based security research firm, is mounting what could be the most ambitious attempt yet to compromise the GSM phone system.' The intended approach is to create an open source [0]project to spread the computation of a giant look-up table across more than 80 machines. Interestingly, they've openly stated that nVidia's CUDA technology will be used to execute parallel elements of the problem on GPUs as well.

If you can help with any of the items below please contact steve or write on the mailinglist!

1. Viterbi / ISI help
2. Comp128v3 source or binary dump from any GSM baseband chip.
3. GEA / GRPS encryption algorithm or source/binary from any GSM baseband chip.
4. CDMA documentation.

The scammers provide a telephone number, 8006 2437, and encourage consumers to call them back with banking details.

'When you call them back a person with a strong accent answers the phone and claims to be from the Office of Fair Trading.'

The Spy Factory
Could 9/11 have been prevented? How do our governments spy on us? Cutting Edge: The Spy Factory exposes the role of the ultra-secret US intelligence agency, the National Security Agency (NSA), in the failure to stop the 9/11 attacks and the subsequent eavesdropping program that listens in without warrant on millions of American citizens. It chronicles the NSA's role in intercepting vital intelligence on the 9/11 plans which it failed to fully relay to other agencies.
Screening on Tuesday 17, November 2009 spacer 7.30pm (VIC Only) spacer SBS ONE

A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO FAKE ID

BY ONEEYEWILLY

oneeyewilly1@hushmail.com

December 2000



In the recent months there has been an increase in the popularity of fake I.D., due to the media attention of sites on the Internet. Unfortunately the media attention is because of sites that are just flat out scams. These scam sites will either send you nothing or some crap they call a fake id, after receiving your money of course. More and more of these scam sites pop up every day. An old, but effective trick for these scheming webmasters is to offer very high quality samples to be viewed on the site. This trickery is accomplished by stealing the pictures off legitimate sites or by just scanning picture out of the Drivers Licence Guide. This guide is a detailed book of all the current drivers licences for Canada, United States, and Europe. This book can be obtained only by legitimate business and law enforcement. The guide is widely available on the Internet, in scanned page format. In the book each state or province has a page dedicated to it wilth a picture and all of the security features outlined.

Can't trust the Internet you say? Well then what better to do than make you own I.D.

Producing your own I.D. can get complicated fast depending on what type of security features the I.D. you're tying to duplicate has. This guide will help you identify what is needed to beat these features.



TYPES OF IDENTIFICATION

When referring to ID, one could be talking about numerous documents. I will be concentrating on Provincial/State ID's and Drivers Licences in this guide. However the techniques can be used to forge just about any documents of interest. Years ago a drivers licence was usually security paper that was laminated and maybe a hologram (Those were the days). Now due to the advances in technology and the reduction of price that come with that, new measures had to be taken to deter forgery.

Almost all the id's these days are now made out of Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC). If you have ever seen a credit card this is what PVC is. These new PVC cards can only be printed on using very expensive printers like Fargo or Electron. This is meant to make it hard for counterfeiters, but like anything else there are ways around this with out spending 5-10 grand on a printer.



NOW TO THE GOOD STUFF

An ID can be made from scratch or you can save some time by finding templates available on the Internet. In simple terms, basically a template is the id saved on you computer ready to be printed then laminated. The very best program for making id is now Adobe Photoshop 6. The templates you will find on the net are usually saved in .psd (photoshop) format. These templates vary in quality, but there are good ones out there. However the only way to insure quality is to make one yourself. Making a template is not easy and takes a decent amount of photoshop experience. The best way to learn is to experiment yourself.

To make a template you can either scan the id at a high resolution and edit it from there, or, to make a higher quality one what you need to do is do it by hand measuring every line and doing the artwork yourself. This method is not for the absolute beginner but like I said you need to try. Once the template is complete with your info on it then it can be printed.



PRINTING MATERIALS

Depending on the ID you're making you will need to select the right material to print on.

If it is a laminated ID then photo paper will be best. If you are making a PVC ID, then you would use a product called TESLIN. This material is fairly new and is an excellent, cost effective way to forge PVC ID's. This material can be printed by laser or inkjet printers. There is a difference between inkjet and laser Teslin. Obviously the laser Teslin is for laser printer and same with the inkjet. Printing on Teslin with an inkjet does not work well so inkjet Teslin is for this. The inkjet is coated with chemicals to absorb the ink effectively. Once printed on and laminated, Teslin becomes almost exactly like PVC. More information on Teslin can be found at www.teslin.com and can be purchased at www.idsupply.com.



LAMINATION

After your template is printed out on what ever material, it needs to be laminated.

Like everything else the type of lamination varies depending on the material you are laminating.

For normal paper or photo paper, you can get pouches in different thicknesses or mils. A good thickness to work with is 10 mil. To laminate Teslin you need butterfly pouches for Teslin.

Laminating pouches also come in different varieties. You can get ones that are glossy or that are matte. Also they come with hi or low co magnetic strips. Lamination can be found at www.idsupply.com. A good decent laminator is a must for the id hobbyist. My personal preference is the Docuseal 40 available for about 40 bucks.



HOLOGRAMS

There are various methods used to create the holograms that are implemented on ID's.

Depending on the color of the hologram and its properties different paints and inks can be used.

There is another fairly new product out that I can't say enough about called Photo-EZ.

This product is for making stencils. A stencil is basically the outline of a picture with the negative part missing. To make the stencil you scan the hologram off your id, then convert it to an all black image. Next you print the image on a transparency. A transparency is a transparent sheet of plastic meant for inkjet printers or lasers. Then you take the transparency and tape it to the Photo-EZ. You put it out in the sun and all the areas of the material not covered by the black negative of the holo cures. When washed the part covered by the negative washes away, leaving you with your stencil. You will want to order the high resolution material. This product can be ordered from www.cbridge.com and more information can be found there.

As for the painting material, the two main ones are Interference Gold (Fine) made by Golden Acrylics and PERL-EX DUOTONE. The latter of the materials work best because of the fact it reflects two colors of the spectrum. Perl-Ex comes as a powder and preparation is needed. These paints are transparent when viewed from straight on. When viewed from different angles you see different colors depending on the particular colors of the paint. Perl-Ex comes in Duo Red-Blue, Duo Blue-Green, and Duo Green-Yellow. Perl-Ex is available in a lot of places here is one: www.sierra-enterprises.com/pearlex.htm

You have to buy a Transparent Base made for paints to prepare the Perl-Ex. A good one is Speedball Transparent Base. You mix in a 1:50 ratio. 1 part Per- 50 parts base. If you are using Golden acrylics then you use a 5:1 ratio. 5 parts paint 1 part base. When applying the paint in the stencil, you should use if possible one of those brushes made for screen printing. It is like a pencil but with a flexible tip. A sponge can be used but extra care needs to be taken when applying. You want to apply a very thin amount and practice will be needed to get it right.

On a lot of the new ID's there is a multicolored hologram that reflects the full spectrum (like a rainbow). This is especially true of most of the Canadian ids. What you do is pick the two most dominant colors and buy the matching Perl Ex colors. This will be good enough to reproduce the holo. The holo can be put directly on the finished ID or before lamination on the inside of the pouch. If you choice is the inside then remember to put it in the reverse.



CONCLUSION

Making an ID takes practice and you will go through quite a few mistakes but eventually it can be mastered. The best way is just to try and also read everything you can get your hands on like everything else. Like anything else there are places available to find out more. You can go to #fakeid on Dalnet with IRC. I stress that you read everything you can before asking "how can I make a fake ID" in the chat rooms. You will just get ignored because it can't be explained in a few sentences.

http://www.hackcanada.com/canadian/scams/beginners_fake-id.html

Some notes on the Art of Identification Modification
Version 0.1

Contents:
Intro
An Overview of the ID (incomplete)
--Security measures used to protect from counterfeiting/modification
How to do modifications (incomplete)
--Scratching
--Erasing with acetone
--Reprinting
--Transparencies
--Photographic Paper
--Queensland ID's
Problems you may encounter (incomplete)
Detecting Modifications (Not written yet)
Please Note


Intro:
This document is a compilation of notes based on experiences in attempting to modify a Victorian (Australia) Drivers licence/permit (2008 Issue). This document will also provide attached blank templates that I have compiled during my experimenting. As well as this there will be attached images showing points of interest in the cards and comparing differences between Learner permits, Probationary Licences and Driver Licences.
This document is strictly for educational purposes only and as such no actions described in the following document should be attempted or followed. If you choose to follow the steps outlined in the document you herby hold yourself responsible for any and all damages incurred legal or otherwise.
Regards
~E3vil and the Get Rooted Team
An overview of the ID
A Victorian driver’s licence (or permit) is considered photographic proof of age within Australia. As such, modifying its information such as date of birth, name, address etc can be very desirable.
The Vic ID is a standard looking photo ID. Credit card sized in both thickness and dimensions. It’s approximately LengthxWidthxThickness. Back side of the ID are 4 large numbers made up of very small "x''s in the format MM-YY. As well as that there is a unique serial number in the top right hand corner. This is usually in the format A7xxxxxx. The only difference I have noticed between learner permits and drivers licences (on the reverse) is that in the bottom left hand corner of the licences a learners permit will say "Carry permit when driving" as opposed to "Carry licence when driving"
The front of the ID is considerably more complex.
I will provide templates or examples to show the differences between L's P's and Full licences later on in this file.
First off, and most obviously is the holographic overlay that can be seen quite clearly when tilted at different angles in the light. This feature appears to be thanks to a small and very thin coating on the ID just visible at the borders of the ID about 2mm in. The triangles are the only part of the ID which are holographic and are printed randomly in diagonal lines.
Secondly, and less obviously, there is a UV Watermark throughout the most of the ID (with the exception of the top coloured banner and the photo) which reads "State government of Victoria" and also has a large Triangle/Southern Cross logo approximately in the middle of the card.
The photo part of the ID has been designed so that the border of the photo is 'semi-transparent' and has the background design seeping into the edges. This is generally not a problem in any way as you’re less likely to be modifying the photo part of things. If you are, be aware this is the case though.
As well as the above, each ID has a unique Licence Number assigned and printed to it. If you’re looking to make a 'real' ID (for example to obtain a passport) then this will be a problem for you unless you steal someone else's licence and use all of their details. The Licence Number is usually in the format 09xxxxxxx
Finally, it should be noted that each ID has a very fine and intricate pattern for a background. This is not really a problem as damaging this layer is difficult to do however just be aware that if you plan to create your own templates (or modify the ones provided) that the lines should look smooth and "flow" nicely. Try to compare ID's to determine how parts look with/without holograms.
Right, now onto the fun stuff...
How to Mod
Scratching
Scratching ID's is the simplest, quickest and most commonly used method. It is a simple process whereby a steady hand extremely lightly scratches away at the number they want to change and re-draws it with an extra-fine permanent marker. The reason this works is because the text (date of birth etc) is not actually printed on the physical card itself (like the background is) but rather printed on the holographic overlay. This method has an obvious downside, if someone examines the hologram the scratched surface can appear very obviously in strong light at the right angle. There’s a 50-50 chance you'll have a hologram over the detail you want to modify. If there is no hologram, your work is made simpler. If there is, it’s not the end of the world; it just means that a slightly less persistent bouncer could notice

Erasing With Acetone (or other solvents)
Unfortunately I found this out the hard way. It turns out that a large number of things can dissolve the ink on an ID (I’ve tested this with several other ID's (school, work etc)) and ruin it completely. Now. Originally, I tried to superglue a transparency to the back after scratching the back year off. Just for the record, PVA glue also does the same. The superglue dissolved the ink right off the card leaving very smudged and blurry remains. This however can be of benefit for us though. We can happily erase all of the back of the ID with acetone (Nail polish remover); this comes in handy if you are going to be either re-printing directly to the back of the ID OR your gluing transparencies on to it. I haven’t tried any other solvent aside from acetone (directly) but I assume there are other similar things that would work just as well. The effect of erasing with acetone is excellent and I highly recommend it when you’re modifying the reverse of the cards. You need to be careful that it does not spill onto the front of the card however as acetone directly dissolves the holographic overlay (first) and then the rest of the ink (second) and it will look very dodgy. Just to be sure, if you plan on gluing anything to the card afterwards it’s advisable to wash gently with warm soapy water first to make sure there isn’t any residue to interfere.

Reprinting
There is not much I can say on this topic. I don’t have access to a card printer. I reckon that if you have access to a colour ID printer you can simply scratch/erase sections you want to modify and print them on again after some careful alignment. If you have access to holographic printers then the templates ill supply here are about all your going to need to print out ID's. For the record, such facilities cost upwards of $5000 on average.
I didn’t try this (mainly because I didn’t want to waste to much ink) however I think it might be possible to use a printer with photo printing/CD label printing capabilities to print on the ID. Especially if the surface of the card is porous or rough (you'll be able to tell when you touch it as it will feel different to the rest of the card)
Transparencies
Transparencies are (in my opinion) the best method for id modification. You can purchase single sheets of inkjet/laser transparencies for anywhere between 50c and $5 a sheet. I tried many different kinds in my quest for the perfect one and happily found that most of them are basically the same. The problem is however sticking them down over (the usually scratched ID)
Just to clarify at this point, the steps for this process are as follows:
1. Scratch ID at points where you wish to modify (technically not necessary for things like photo area if your printer prints thick and can hide the image underneath)
2. Calibrate printer to match ID card colouring etc.
3. Print modified values onto transparency overlay
4. Attach transparency to card
5. Trim overlay to the edges of the ID
6. Using a lighter quickly and gently waft an orange flame along the edges of the ID (the transparencies being plastic will melt and bend around the edges giving a much more professional finish (be warned doing this wrong can destroy the ID and set the transparencies on fire!!!))

If a suitable glue can be found (UHU Stick/Pritt stick (glue sticks)) can sometimes work well in binding the transparencies to the card. They are not very strong and they have trouble drying unless applied very thinly (as they usually need air to dry). The best solution, if you can manage it, is trying to find clear printable sticky transparencies. These do exist but I had to go to a very obscure art store where I found it by sheer chance. One place I know that now sells them is a store called "Melbourne artist’s supplies" 34-36 Little Latrobe St, Melbourne Vic 3000, Australia. If all else fails eBay and the internet will get you by. Bear in mind some places only sell them by the box of 50-100 sheets. This can cost upwards of $150 AUD. Office works sometimes sells them in individual sheets but only for Laser printers.
Photographic paper

this is actually something I discovered by trial and error (but mostly desperation). You can actually print the reverse (white side of an ID) with a perfect gloss finish using an inkjet printer and high gloss photo paper. There are several tricks to doing this however. Most importantly is lining the image up with the card (harder than it sounds). After you print it cut it roughly to the size of the card. After that lay the image flat on the table and get a fine blade of some description. Gently cut in-between the cardboard backing and the printed image and begin to peel the cardboard away. This makes the paper considerably thinner and less obvious to anyone scrutinizing the card. You have to remove the backing very gently and very slowly and try to avoid the image side bending at all (bending will make what looks to be like cracks appear in the otherwise white image). This takes practise.
Next you need to get something like double sided sticky-tape or strong solvent free glue and apply it to the card and print. Then you'll need to carefully align the card and image and glue away. Finally the hardest part, trimming the print down to the size of the card. This is not easy, the print is apparently made up of lots of little fibres bonded together and therefore when you cut you can get all these little "hairs" coming off the side. I’m not sure if this applies to all photographic paper or just the Kodak ones I used but fair warning. Burning the edges off doesn’t work either (like with transparencies) and cutting with a blade is very tricky to do perfectly. If you can pull it off or find another way please let me know.
The only thing this can’t reproduce is a legitimate hologram, you can try printing pale white where the holograms should be but it’s a pretty poor look.
Queensland ID's
Now, I’ve never tried this but I’ve heard it works well enough; it seems that Queensland is too cheap to invest in REAL ID cards so they basically use laminated paper. You can pick up a budget laminator for as little as $30 from Office works/BigW and the lamination pouches are fairly cheap as well. This is great as all you need to do is print and laminate (and possibly stick a photo of a person in it as well). I don’t know if the ID counts as real (points) ID. I’m sure it'd work well enough with clubs though. If you know anything about Queensland ID's or better yet can send me a scan of someone’s, I’ll be happy to try whip up a blank template.

Problems you may encounter
There are quite a lot of things that can go wrong. No matter how you go about modifying or creating an ID you should practise and try with cards that aren't important (I suggest school ID's/disposable credit cards/gift cards (you may have to remove the protective film off some of them though)). That way, you will become familiar with how the glue flows, how sticky the different surfaces are what glues dissolve what inks and what transparencies work best for you. Same goes for scratching IDs. You’re going to need to practise changing them, if you don’t; you are quite likely to fuck up your first attempt. Trust me on that.
So, things that can and do go wrong.
Scratching is very delicate, if you scratch too hard you start to reveal the raw white card and if you slip you can cut pretty deep. So be careful and use a very light flicking motion (if I get a chance ill make a video on how-to)
Using acetone/solvents to dissolve the backing can also inadvertently dissolve the front side of things to. If you’re going to try this id advise putting the ID up on some kind of sponge so that any spills are draw immediately away from the ID card (if the acetone sits on the holograms they dissolve!) You’re going to need to scrub fairly hard with acetone using tissue paper so be careful and take your time. I suggest using a large syringe to carefully measure and directly apply the acetone and take it one section at a time, drying any spillages immediately.

Please Note:
Please not this is currently a beta document for peer review. It does not yet contain templates or diagrams. All constructive comments are welcome. If you’d like to see anything else added to this tute or you have any experiences in modifying ID’s please let me know!

Cheers,
~E3vil and the Get r00ted Team